🔗 Share this article

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. But, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their humble place securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.